TULUM, laid back Caribbean, visited in May right after the end of ‘high season’ when the crowds have gone. Actually there are 2 Tulums…. One is the beachside shabby chic with many small hotels and restaurants; the other – Tulum town (or pueblo). Beachside has no electricity so candles rule at night (some hotels have generators) and accommodation (anything with an ocean view) is considerably more expensive as are the restaurants. Tulum town is more ‘rustic’ with cheaper accom and better value for money restaurants. The VIBE is wild west meets slightly dilapidated hippie chic.

Impressions
* ARRIVAL CANCUN airport and TRANSFER – pre book with customer@comforttravelcancun.com (Canada Transfers by Comfort Travel Cancun). They are reliable and will deliver you the 90 minutes to Tulum for $90 USD

* WEATHER – Its Hot! Around 34c every day and still a good 2 months til the rainy season. You’ll feel the sun burn so plenty of sunscreen is required but beautiful balmy evenings.

* SAFETY – You feel very safe mingling with the friendly locals. Plenty of ‘Policia’ on the streets but low key. Many people speak English especially restaurant staff. A few words of Spanish will help if you can master that.

* TRANSPORT – To really explore you’ll need to rent bicycles ($7-$10 a day)…everyone does. Although we actually bought new bikes at $150 each and sold them back for a third of the purchase price…it was a better deal. Cars are expensive to rent and you HAVE to pay the additional comprehensive no-fault insurance even if you have a travel insurance or credit card cover. Figure on $80 a day all up for a small compact car. If you are travelling further afield to say the Chichen Itza Mayan ruins, then you’ll need a car. Taxis are plentiful and economical but there’s a rate for locals and a higher rate for visitors…typically Mexican. For travel up and down the coast, there are Collectivo minibusess and motorcoach options. Its 3kms from Tulum pueblo to the beach on a paved bike track.

* STAYED – In Casa Blanca; a 3 brm/2 bathroom house with swimming pool. Booked on www.vrbo.com. Property Listing # 453528. Located in a so called ‘new’ upscale housing area 5 minutes cycle from downtown Tulum. Great spacious 4 story property but the area whilst safe, needs a major ‘landscaping’ and road improvement effort.

* WATER – Not safe to drink and high salinity. Use bottled water for everything; readily available from numerous OXXO outlets (7 Eleven).

* CURRENCY – You can use either pesos or USD. The exchange rate on USD is very good so no need to get a lot of Mexican pesos before you arrive. HSBC or Scotiabank ATM’s are in the main street and will dispense a max of 7000 pesos a day. There is an option to take out USD from the ATM”s but don’t. You’ll get stung on the exchange rate.

* SUPERMARKETS – The smaller San Franciso and the larger Walmart type Chedraui nearby. Wine is expensive and the choice is limited but a wide choice of the excellent Mexican beers (Bohemia and Modelo Especial are my favourites). A 12 pack is 150 pesos (USD10)

* BEACHES – All beaches are public access but hotels and restaurants on the beaches have areas they ‘claim’ as their own with umbrella and chair rental etc. Some public beaches also have  umbrella and chair rental available. The ocean is turquoise blue and the sand is white…just like the adverts.

NB: In 2015 the Tulum beaches were plagued with sargassum seaweed washing in overpowering quantities (as in much of the Caribbean). There has been a massive government cleanup since, which for now appears to have worked. There are a couple of websites, one being NASA, which give updates on the situation. Beaches with protected headlands are always less affected.

* THE SIAN KIAAN BIOSPHERE – Is a huge coastal National Park. Roundtrip 23kms and about 400 pesos taxi ride roundtrip from Tulum pueblo. Get dropped at the White Arch for pristine ocean swimming and shade under the coconut trees. Turn left for clothing optional, turn right for textile! On this day for an early dinner, we enjoyed some very good Italian fare (with imported buffala and other ingredients) at the impossibly coastal chic Posada Margarita. It’s expensive by Mexican standards but the homemade Pasta with Prawns (340 pesos) washed down with NZ Matua Sauv Blanc (480 pesos) and the setting right on the beach, is a must.

* MEZZANINE Hotel & Restaurant – On the rocks overlooking the ocean does a beautiful breakfast and juices…probably the best huevos rancheros on the trip. The location is special and the public beach access was easy for 4 hours ‘lolling’ in the warm ocean. We finished the day with drinks at the bar and some very good Thai appetisers, avoiding the cocktail happy hour from 1-4pm!

JUICE – (Jugos) are everywhere. Large juices of all types are 50 pesos, made before your eyes. For a real treat, we tried the homemade all juice popsicles…every possible flavour is available. Look out for the best shop selling these on the main street.

* RESTAURANTS – Be careful…you might put on weight!…as nearly everything is eaten with corn tortilla’s and accompanied by fresh made taco chips. No Tex-Mex….pretty much all the genuine article.

Ki’Bok – absolutely the best serious barista coffee in Tulum…you could be in Italy or Melbourne or ….Run by a delightful young Californian family. They do cafe food as well and are the de-facto tourist office as well, such is their local knowledge on restaurants, bars, beaches etc.

Le Bistro – opposite Ki’bok, a pretty genuine French cafe with a wide menu. Very good crepes and salads (100 peso’s).

La Malquerida – a favourite for  VERY good food quality and service. All types of Mexican dishes, good seafood and salads. Very moderate cost.

El Camello – a local landmark but still serving great value seafood which is caught daily and processed right on the premises. Wonderful cerviche (90 pesos for the small plate and it is big!)….we kept going back every couple of days just for the cerviche.

Barracuda – good fish taco’s and a truly great Mayan Sopa (seafood soup).

La Magoga Caribe – genuine Italian thin crust & tasty pizza…the owner is from Venice. Pizza’s are large, serve two and cost (110 peso’s). Try the Limon au Natural drinks that come in oversized preserve jars…delicious.

El Capitan – well known, well run, good service and seafood rules. Fish taco’s, fajitas and lobster. Large menu.

El Gourmet – on the main street. Good panini’s, homemade breads and juices for when you want a break from Mexican fare.

AND  THEN…there is this little outdoor restaurant with no name on the San Francisco Supermarket corner where the road runs to Coba. THE best fish tacos for 15-20 pesos each and complimentary salad bar. Fresh large orange, carrot and celery juices for 50 pesos. This is heaven and all the locals know it. We almost started living there….oh for something like this is Sydney!

:: d + m ::

**Please note that all prices quoted & suppliers used were based on time of writing